Where to stay in Harsil valley

The resort sits on the flat of the valley floor, inside a working orchard rather than beside a decorative one - in September there is fruit on the trees and people picking it. The buildings are timber and stone in the local manner, low and wide, and the rooms are lined in deodar, which is the single best thing about sleeping here: the smell of it, and the way it holds warmth after the sun goes off the ridge.

The Bhagirathi runs close enough to hear from the doorstep. Guests reliably mention this, and reliably mention that they stopped noticing it by the second night, which is the correct outcome.

Mornings are slow here by geography rather than by policy - the sun clears the eastern ridge late, and until it does you watch the light come down the far slope with a cup of tea. If you are going up to Gangotri, say so the evening before and breakfast can be at the door early.